What is Thread Weight?

Threads and fabrics are the two most common and important elements in all types of sewing. In fabricating soft furnishings for the home, it is necessary for a good finished product to use elements that are suited for the application.

Let’s talk about thread. Using the correct thread can be the difference between success and failure. We wouldn’t use upholstery thread for sheers or a fine hand sewing thread for slipcovers. Therefore, it is important to know the correct size or weight of thread to use for each item to be sewn.

What is thread weight? We all see those numbers next to the thread name. Did you ever wonder what those numbers mean? Thread is weighed or measured in 5 different ways: Weight (WT), Denier (Td or d), Tex (T), Number, and Composition.

Weight is a length measurement and is determined by measuring the length of one gram of thread. If one gram of thread is 30 meters long then it is 30 weight thread. The higher the number the finer the thread.

Denier is also a thread length measurement and is the weight of 9000 meters of thread. The larger the denier number, the heavier the thread.

Tex is the most consistent of the thread measurement systems. It measures 1000 meters of thread in grams. One thousand meters of thread that weighs one gram is 1Tex. The higher the Tex number the thicker the thread.

The Number System was developed in Japan and is called the Gunze Count system. It is used on finer thread and should not be confused with a weight measurement. It is designated as No. 50 or #50 for example. The smaller the number the heavier the thread is.

The Composition Standard was developed for cotton thread but has also been used for polyester. This can be confusing because a cotton thread and a polyester thread with the similar numbers aren’t always exactly the same. Compare cotton to cotton and polyester to polyester. Let’s look at a 30/3 thread. The first number is the same as the Number System explained above. The second number is the number of plies of thread twisted together. For our example, a 30/3 thread is a No. 30 thread with 3 plies twisted together.

So now that we know what those numbers mean, selecting the correct thread for the job is based on more than just guess work. With this knowledge we can also compare different threads for the qualities we need knowing that the job will go easier with the correct thread. Knowledge saves us time and money.

Happy sewing!

Shaped Banding for Roman Shades and Other Decor – WFVision Magazine September 2019

Shaped bandings are a beautiful custom detail for roman shades, valances, draperies or pillow flanges. In this latest article in WFVisions Magazine we explain how to add a shaped band to a roman shade that will result in a shaped facing on the back as well as the front. Click the link below to read the entire article. You can find other industry related articles at Window Fashion Vision.

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What are 2 pass, 3 pass and dim out blackout linings? And why should you care?

Blackout linings offer several functions. They protect drapery fabrics and room furnishings from sun damage, control light and privacy to varying degrees, help to control temperature and somewhat absorb sound. And these functions vary in degree depending on the type of lining used.

When blackout lining is produced, a base fabric is sprayed with layers or passes. This base fabric may be cotton, polyester or a blend of both.  A dim out lining  is made by spraying one layer of acrylic foam on a base fabric and will block about 98% of light. This lining is thinner, softer and generally will cost less than either 2 or 3 pass blackout.

A two pass blackout lining has a base fabric that is first sprayed with a black opaque membrane and then sprayed with a white acrylic foam. While it does offer 100% light block, it is lighter in weight than a 3 pass blackout lining and is usually lower in price.

The thickest and most expensive is the 3 pass blackout. Here a base fabric is first sprayed with a white acrylic foam, then sprayed with a black opaque membrane and finally sprayed with another layer of white acrylic foam on the outside. It also blocks 100% of light but offers more temperature control and sound absorption than the other two options.

valanceWhich leads us to why should you care. Although blackouts and dim outs do offer several benefits that other linings don’t, you must take into consideration the increased weight of the treatment (from an operational and a fabrication standpoint), the fact that it is more expensive than standard linings, and sometimes there are additional fabrication costs to consider since it can be more difficult to work with.  It is advisable to test a swatch of fabric with a swatch of lining as some fabrics, usually polyesters or poly blends, may repel the rubbery blackout lining. When this happens, a flannel interlining between the two will keep your drapery layers hanging in unison.

Blackout and dim out linings are excellent choices when a client wants a room darkening effect. And understanding and discussing  the benefits and limitations of linings with your customer will lead to a completely custom product your client will love.

All treatments shown were fabricated with blackout linings by Sew Unordinary. If you want to know more about other types of linings, click here to read further.

 

All our best,

Amanda and Rose Mary